Food & Dining: Ghee Brings Farm-To-Table Fine Dining to Atlanta
Miami’s four-time Bib Gourmand-winning restaurant, with a James Beard semifinalist chef, brings inventive Indian cuisine to West Midtown in Atlanta.
[Left] The striking interiors of Ghee Indian Kitchen’s original Florida location reflect its upscale aspirations. The newly-opened Atlanta branch carries forward a similar bold vibe.
Earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand for four consecutive years and boasting a James Beard Award semifinalist chef are rare accolades for Indian restaurants. One such standout is Ghee Indian Kitchen, a farm-to-table concept in Miami, Florida, founded by chef Niven Patel. It sources many ingredients from owner Rancho Patel’s nearby two-acre farm.
Ghee has earned rave reviews for its imaginative cuisine rooted in Gujarati heritage, deftly combined with contemporary ingredients—resulting in unique offerings such as pakoras made with taro leaves and curries with asparagus, kale, and calabaza.
[Right] Niven Patel (left), a James Beard semifinalist chef, and owner Rancho Patel, are the duo behind this celebrated restaurant.
“Why can’t we have such destination restaurants in Atlanta?” many of us have wistfully wondered. Wonder no more. As part of its northward expansion, Ghee’s new location in West Midtown, which opened in October, is its first outside Florida.
The moment you walk in, you feel the energy of something thoughtfully designed. The shimmering red-tiled bar anchors the space. Ambient gold lighting glows through chandeliers, faded tapestry adorns the walls, and warm golden yellows blend with earthy reds and browns—all of which feels like a modern version of a Mughlai look.
The seating is just as ornate. Rajasthani-style marble inlay, plush couches upholstered in soft Indian prints, and carved wooden chairs invite you to linger. A small brass diya flickers on each table, grounding the space in homely Indian tradition. From most tables, you can peek into the semi-open kitchen and watch dishes emerge in a steady rhythm of colors and aromas that tease you before you’ve even set eyes on the menu.
[Left] Green Papaya Salad
Around me, I see groups of friends gathering for laughter-filled meals and couples sharing small plates on cozy couches. A colorful display of Indian spices, rice sacks, and stainless-steel tiffins decorates the walls. The hum of conversation blends with upbeat Bollywood and Arabic remixes—the lyrics may be lost in the chatter, but the rhythm adds life to the already vibrant setting.
Happy hour specials to a three-course, 13-dish tasting menu
What I love about Ghee is that you can choose your own experience. Come for happy hour between 5–7 pm, when the bar offers discounted small plates like spiced peanuts, pani puri, charred corn, tikka fries, and tandoori chicken. Settle in for the tasting menu—thirteen dishes across three courses that let you explore Patel’s culinary vision for around $65 per person. Or, like me, order à la carte and follow your instincts.
[Right] Yellowfin Tuna Bhel
While Patel's Gujarati influences are evident, the menu goes much further—featuring flavors from multiple regions of the subcontinent and, occasionally, even incorporating Western ingredients. There’s something familiar, and yet refreshingly new, about it.
Among the appetizers, the Green Papaya Salad is a nice beginning—light, crisp, bursting with the sweet-spicy balance of jaggery dressing, crushed peanuts, and cherry tomatoes. It reminds me of Indian chaat, but lighter and more refined. The deconstructed Samosa Chaat delivers all the street-food joy—spiced chickpeas, pomegranate seeds, yogurt, mint, and crunch in every bite.
[Left] Yellowfin Tuna Bhel
A discovery for me was the Farm Patra, made with taro leaves from Patel’s own farm. It looks like a cinnamon roll but tastes like a blend of dumpling and fritter. Made with chickpea batter, it is served with tangy date chutney on the side. The Crispy Broccoli channels Indo-Chinese nostalgia—deep-fried florets tossed with mushrooms in a sweet-and-salty red pepper sauce that’s utterly addictive.
[Right] Duck Biryani
But my personal favorite might just be the Yellowfin Tuna Bhel—a playful twist on bhel puri, one of my favorite childhood snacks from Mumbai, reimagined for more grown-up palates. Cubes of sashimi-grade tuna rest atop puffed rice, avocado, corn, and sev, bringing together the crunch of Mumbai’s beaches and the freshness of coastal sushi bars.
For mains, the Duck Biryani arrives dramatically in a Moroccan tagine, layered with tender roasted duck that falls apart at the touch of a fork. The rice is fragrant and golden, dotted with cashews, dried cherries, and fresh mint, reminding me of the prized crunchy layer of Persian tahdig. It comes with a sweet carrot raita that cools and complements the richness perfectly.
[Left]Chai Ice Cream Sandwich
Each curry at Ghee feels distinct. The Turmeric-Marinated Fish is delicate and aromatic, bathed in a coconut-fennel broth that feels like comfort in a bowl. The Kerala Lamb Curry has tender pieces of meat in a light turmeric-coconut sauce. At the same time, the Chicken Tikka Masala, made with organic Bell & Evans chicken, avoids the heavy creaminess that too often overwhelms the dish—it’s gently spiced and balanced. The Daal Makhni is the kind of homestyle lentil stew that soothes you, with notes of ginger and cardamom, and the Saag Paneer bursts with bright green color and freshness. Among the breads, the avocado bhatura—tinted slightly green and puffed to perfection—is a clever modern touch that somehow works beautifully.
Dessert is not to be skipped. The Sticky Date Cake, warm and rich with jaggery and spices, pairs with a fiery ginger ice-cream that wakes up your senses— it reminded me of a Caribbean spice cake I once had in Barbados. The Chai Ice Cream Sandwich, made with Parle-G biscuits, is playful and nostalgic, evoking your childhood.
Even the drinks echo the same creative spirit. There’s an impressive wine list that includes Indian labels like Sula, alongside inventive cocktails infused with bold spices. You’ll also find Indian beers and spirits, which feel right at home in this setting.
The staff reflects the diversity of Atlanta itself—each server attentive yet relaxed, with accents from around the world and stories to share. Around me, guests in saris, suits, and sundresses all share the same excitement of discovery.
[Right] Sticky Date Cake
What I appreciate most about Ghee is that it doesn’t try to dilute its identity to please everyone. It stays true to the essence of Indian cooking—layers of spice, freshness, and comfort—while presenting it with modern sophistication and heart. It fills a long-missing niche in Atlanta: an upscale Indian restaurant that celebrates authenticity without pretension. A place where you can take out-of-town guests for an elegant night out or come when you crave food that feels both nostalgic and new.
Ghee is the kind of restaurant that makes you proud to see how far Indian cuisine has come, and excited for where it’s headed next.
Sucheta Rawal is an award-winning food and travel writer who has traveled to over 120 countries across seven continents, experiencing the world through her palate. She inspires people to travel more meaningfully and sustainably through her nonprofit, Go Eat Give, and her books, Beato Goes To. Find her on social @SuchetaRawal.
Enjoyed reading Khabar magazine? Subscribe to Khabar and get a full digital copy of this Indian-American community magazine.
